Squama: Illuminating Body Jewelry by Mehrnaz Zarrin Hadid

Kerf Collection transforms silver into living, reflective art forms

Squama, part of the acclaimed Kerf Collection, stands as a testament to the power of integrating technique and aesthetics in contemporary jewelry design. Mehrnaz Zarrin Hadid’s approach centers on the question of how technique can simultaneously generate beauty, moving beyond ornamentation to emphasize the intrinsic role of process and material. This philosophy is evident in every aspect of Squama, where experimental research and technical precision converge to unlock new creative possibilities.

The unique properties of Squama are rooted in its innovative use of kerf cuts—precise incisions that allow rigid silver to bend fluidly along the contours of the body. This technique transforms the metal into a dynamic surface that catches and disperses light, producing a luminous gradient that shifts with every movement. The interplay of glowing highlights and soft shadows accentuates the wearer’s form, giving the jewelry a sense of vitality. The name Squama, referencing overlapping scales, reflects the intricate patterns of light and shadow that animate each piece.

The realization of Squama relies on advanced fabrication methods, including 3D printing and laser cutting, to achieve both functional and aesthetic goals. Extensive experimentation determined the ideal combination of curve geometries, cut depths, and material thicknesses, ensuring that each piece is self-supporting and structurally sound without external reinforcements. Silver was selected for its exceptional ability to transition from flat to curved forms, enhancing the collection’s transformative qualities.

Functionality is at the heart of the Squama design. When not worn, the jewelry lies flat, but it effortlessly adapts to the wrist or neck, conforming to the body’s unique topography. The extendable bracelet version can be adjusted from wrist to elbow, offering a customizable fit that reflects personal style. The reflective surfaces respond to movement, creating an interactive experience that blurs the line between object and wearer.

The development of Squama was not without challenges. Limited access to advanced fabrication technologies and skilled operators in Iran required extensive independent research and resourcefulness. Despite these obstacles, the project achieved international recognition, earning the prestigious Golden A' Jewelry Design Award in 2025 for its outstanding innovation and impact on the fields of art, design, and technology.

Squama exemplifies the potential of merging architectural thinking with design innovation, resulting in jewelry that is both technically sophisticated and visually captivating. This collection invites a new appreciation for the body as a landscape, where light, movement, and material coalesce into living expressions of wearable art.