Montes' inspiration for Tormenta stemmed from his grandfather's career as a fisherman and his hobby of constructing miniature ships during retirement. This connection to the maritime industry is reflected in the collection's materials, which were developed in collaboration with TextileLab Tilburg. The materials, categorized into six distinct groups, are all connected with patterns of sails, symbolizing the collection's nautical roots. The materials' shapes and textures change identity and come alive when in contact with water, adapting to the human body and deforming naturally. This innovative approach to material development is a technical process, while the conversion into design is more intuitive, resulting in a collection that is both cutting-edge and deeply personal.
The uniqueness of Tormenta lies in its material research. All six material categories are based on the pattern of a sail, each bursting into different shapes and textures. The materials, developed in collaboration with TextileLab, aim to create shape within the materials themselves. The remaining materials were used to create material installations, further showcasing Montes' innovative approach to design. The Tormenta 3D printed shoes, designed in collaboration with Chris van den Elzen and Shapeways, further underscore the collection's innovative spirit.
The materials used in Tormenta are based on illusion, often mistaken for leather or mohair, but are actually thin, tiny nylon that morphs textures. This nylon was recycled from old fishnets and produced with local manufacturers, highlighting the collection's commitment to sustainability. The materials were then brought to TextileLab, where the machines were adjusted to create all the materials, which were applied for material research, wearable designs, high fashion, and material installations.
The collection consists of 30 looks, including 15 dresses, 8 coats, 7 tops, 3 pants, and 4 skirts. The Tormenta shoes are available in European sizes 39, 40, and 41, with 15 pairs of shoes available. The material installation measures 180 cm in length, 80 cm in width, and 300 cm in height. The collection's diverse range of designs and sizes ensures that there is something for everyone, further enhancing its appeal.
Tormenta's design process was not without its challenges. The most creative challenge, according to Montes, was to accept and let go of control in some parts of the design process. The most beautiful part of creating unique garments, he believes, is to let the materials grow naturally. This philosophy is reflected in the collection, where the garments personalize to the individual's body shape, resulting in a collection that is as unique as its wearer.
The collection's success is evident in its accolades. Tormenta was awarded Silver in A' Fashion, Apparel and Garment Design Award in 2019, a testament to its outstanding expertise and innovation. The collection's strong technical characteristics and splendid artistic skill showcase a remarkable level of excellence and introduce positive feelings, amazement, and wonder, further cementing its place in the world of fashion.
Project Designers: Jef Montes
Image Credits: Image #1: Photographer: Team Peter Stigter, 2017
Image #2: Photographer: Team Peter Stigter, 2017
Image #3: Photographer: Team Peter Stigter, 2017
Image #4: Photographer: Team Peter Stigter, 2017
Image #5: Photographer: Team Peter Stigter, 2017
Project Team Members: Creative director: Jef Montes
Assistant: Kevin Pleiter
Programmer: Judith Peskens
Show production director: Kim Vos
Casting director: Michelle den Hollander
Show production coordinator: Diek Pothoven
Casting director assistant: Py Tswang Jin
Show production coordinator assistant: Zoë Mesman
Intern: Michael de Geus
Intern: Rosa Kampinga
Intern: Eva Gerritsen
Intern: Elke Cloin
Intern: Stijn Koks
Intern: Leontien Berns
Project Name: Tormenta
Project Client: Jef Montes