The Helmsman: Unisex Wearable Jewelry by Kantadaij Pussarangsri

Abstracting Nautical Cleats into Contemporary Jewelry

The Helmsman stands out as a collection of unisex jewelry that reimagines the purpose and form of nautical cleats. Kantadaij Pussarangsri, the designer behind this innovative collection, has transformed these elements into stunningly unique pieces that embody the spirit of the sea. Made from sterling silver, each piece is meticulously crafted to provide a comfortable fit and a contemporary aesthetic.

Using advanced technology, The Helmsman is brought to life through a combination of 3D printing and traditional craftsmanship. The masterpieces are first printed in wax using a CNC machine, with each part assembled by hand for the silver casting process. The silver is then refined using various files and sandpaper, followed by meticulous hand polishing and rhodium plating to achieve a flawless finish.

The Helmsman collection features a range of jewelry pieces, including bangles, necklaces, bracelets, earrings, and rings. Each piece is designed with hidden hinges and unique mechanisms, allowing for versatile wear and interaction. The necklace, for example, can be worn in two different styles, with or without the bar in the middle, thanks to an extra hinge mechanism on the back of the pendant.

Kantadaij Pussarangsri embarked on this design journey in August 2015 in Bangkok, with the project reaching its completion in February 2016. Throughout the process, the designer conducted extensive research, drawing inspiration from the value of life and the importance of observing the little things around us. The nautical cleat served as a symbol of this philosophy, with its abstracted form reflecting the beauty and usefulness found in everyday objects.

The production of The Helmsman presented its fair share of challenges. The limited scale and angle of the 3D printing machine required each part to be printed separately and assembled by hand. Additionally, the finishing process proved to be demanding due to the material selection of sterling silver. The large surface area and solid pieces made it difficult to achieve a smooth, flawless surface, but the designer's dedication and attention to detail prevailed.

Kantadaij Pussarangsri's jewelry designs are a testament to the fusion of modern and traditional techniques. The minimalist forms with bold yet subtle edges create a unique interpretation of beauty and value. Each piece tells a story, with an avant-garde narrative woven into the design. The Helmsman collection has been recognized for its excellence, receiving the Bronze A' Design Award in the Jewelry, Eyewear, and Watch Design category in 2018. This prestigious award honors designs that demonstrate creativity, resourcefulness, and a commitment to improving quality of life.

Photographer: Jeenna Purasiri