Wired: A Unique Menswear Jacket and Trousers Design by Aaron Chamberlain

Challenging Gender Conformity and Embracing Creativity

Inspired by the struggles of gay youth in a lonely and alienating city, Aaron Chamberlain's Wired collection pushes the boundaries of traditional tailoring and gender conformity. Incorporating latex facings, exposed pad stitching, and intricate embroidery, this menswear jacket and trousers design tells a story of self-discovery and the search for authenticity.

Chamberlain's design stands out from others in its category due to its unconventional materials and techniques. The use of latex facings represents the fetishistic element of the garment, challenging the norms of traditional tailoring. Securing the facing was a technical challenge, as latex weakens and distorts with punctured holes. Chamberlain ingeniously lined up the edge of the latex flush with the seam allowance, folded the main fabric over it, and hand-felled a strip of satin tape to secure it. The result is a lapel with a small border that remains effective and visually striking.

The Wired collection not only showcases impeccable craftsmanship but also aims to break down barriers and alter perceptions of the conventional suit. Chamberlain's designs offer unparalleled quality and creative design features that are often lacking in ready-to-wear garments. This collection is not for the faint of heart; it demands a wearer who mirrors its decadent and unruly perfection.

Chamberlain embarked on this project in September 2015 in London and completed it in June 2016. The underlying research for the collection delves into the prevalent phenomenon of "Chemsex," the systematic use of a combination of drugs to accompany sex, which has affected many gay youth in London. The garments in the collection gradually become looser as the individual loses inhibitions and becomes more hyper-sexualized. The embroidery also evolves, growing more three-dimensional and uncontrollable as the looks progress.

Despite the creative and technical challenges of incorporating unconventional fabrics like latex into a field governed by traditional techniques, Chamberlain successfully convinced his peers of the credibility and ingenuity of his work. By challenging the hyper-masculine ideals deeply rooted in tailoring, Chamberlain brings fresh ideas and concepts to an industry that has remained largely unchanged for centuries.

The Wired collection has received recognition for its outstanding design. It was awarded the Bronze A' Design Award in the Fashion, Apparel, and Garment Design category in 2017. This prestigious award honors designs that demonstrate creativity, resourcefulness, and contributions to quality of life improvements. Chamberlain's work showcases strong technical and creative skills, making the world a better place through innovative design.


Project Details and Credits

Project Designers: Aaron Chamberlain
Image Credits: Photography: Stephen Maycock Embroidery: Ami Waring
Project Team Members: Embroiderer: Ami Waring
Project Name: Wired
Project Client: Aaron Chamberlain


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